Ancient hamam, tastefully renovated, awesome experience.

Big bustling bistro on the big street parallel to istiklal. Full until late, good people watching, decent mezes (get the boquerones). Looks like a tourist trap (and sort of is) but locals come here, and it really is in the middle of the middle.

One of the most amazing sites in old Istanbul, the old cistern under the royal palace. Hundreds of 8 meter columns of various provenance a support this immense, beautiful, cavernous space. A must see.

Very old Istanbul tavern style establishment, an old tradition from Greek times apparently. Far and away the best meal I've had in Turkey, and also one of the best experiences. Sit at the bar and let the wonderful, bald, mustachioed head chef give you a history lesson and a culinary education of Ottoman tradition. Highlights include house cured olives with pistachio sprouts, zucchini-walnut-yogurt-garlic purée, and mustard-sea-bass. Nota bene- this is all food that is designed to be eaten with raki over many hours. The flavors tend to be intense whether it be salty, garlicky, spicy, or nutty.

Want to go.

Remarkable only because of the view from the terrace, which is truly remarkable. Views of the suleimaniye mosque to one side, sultanahmet to the other, and beyoglu to the other.

Cool cocktail list, hoping the famous Alex will show up. Glad the dollar is strong...

Lovely little cafe west of the touristy part of Istanbul's old Fatih neighborhood. Comfy, relaxed, very friendly staff, LOTS of friendly kitties lounging in chairs. You may have to transfer one to your lap to get a seat :-)